The headlong pace and flawed modernity of Bangkok match few people's visions of the capital of exotic Siam. Spiked with scores of high-rise buildings of concrete and glass, it's a vast flatness which holds a population of at least nine million, and feels even bigger. But under the shadow of the skyscrapers you'll find a heady mix of chaos and refinement, of frenetic markets and hushed golden temples, of dispiriting, zombie-like sex shows and early-morning almsgiving ceremonies. One way or another, the place will probably get under your skin - and if you don't enjoy the challenge saw drone and clouds of pollution, you can spend a couple of days on the most impressive temples and museums, have a quick shopping spree and then strike out for the provinces.

Most budget travellers head for the Banglamphu district, where if you're not careful you could end up watching videos all day long and selling your shoes when you run out of money. The district is far from having a monopoly short walk from the major sights in the Ratanakosin area : the dazzling ostentation of Wat Phra Kaeo, the grandiose decay of Wat Po and the National Museum's hoard of exquisite works of art. Once those cultural essentials have been seen, you can choose from a whole bevy of lesser sights, including Wat Benjamabophi (the Marble Temple), especially at festival time, and Jim Thompson's House, a small, personal museum of Thai design.