Seoul is mega-modern and appealingly ancient. Partially destroyed by Japanese and Manchu invasions in the 16th and 17th centuries, and almost totally flattened in the Korean War, most of the city has been rebuilt since the 1950s. Peeking out from among the 12-lane freeways, overshadowed by high-rises, Seoul still retains a hidden history of centuries-old temples, palaces, pagodas and pleasure gardens. It also has luxury accommodation, excellent public transport and cultural experiences aplenty, and that's why most visitors to South Korea never get past its city limits. The Han River bisects the city, with Jung-gu the central district, Jongno-gu (with many hotels and sights) to the north, and Itaewon (packed full of shopping, bars and nightlife) just south of the city centre.

Seoul attracted widespread international attention by hosting the 1988 Olympic Games, though political pressure and labour problems spilled into the streets for the world to see. The city again took the world's centre stage in 2000, when a busload of North Koreans saw their families for the first time in 50 years in a tearful reunion at the Seoul Convention and Exhibition Center.

The 2002 World Cup, for which Seoul built a huge stadium in the shape of a Korean kite symbolising hope for national unity and world peace, brought many new visitors to this intiguing city where old co-exists with new and where East and West enjoy each other's company.